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100 yard zero vs 200 yard zero



Funny thing is that my 50 cal muzzleloader with 250 grain sabots and 150 grains of powder has almost identical ballistics. Actually, MRT occurs a little beyond the half-way point – like around 115 for the 200-yard zero, and 170 yards for the 300-yard zero. Good point blank hold to 200 yards, and less variation in between POA & POI. And that was the 100-yard Zero that Reid was referencing. Most game animals are taken inside of 200 yards. This graph illustrates that with a 100-yard zero, your bullet is on at 100 yards, then starts falling rapidly, and is 3 inches below the point-of-hold at approximately 200 yards.… Do I zero dead on at 100 yrds or higher? What size groups were you getting at 200? Ok if I sight mine in at 25 yards how high should I be to be zeroed at 100 kdub01 If 200 yards is a long shot for you then the 100 yard zero would probably … Then shoot it at 100 yards when you get the first chance. Concepts such as what you’re promoting are akin to the military 25/300 zeros that allow for a person to miss head shots as close as 100 yards because of the higher allowed maximum ordinate. 100 yard zero would be my next choice. If I get to any farms where I can actually air it out to 500 or 600 yards, I will just dial up on those. I enjoy wide open spaces to shoot in however, so what works best for you might be different. At 1,000 yards, that translates to 10-inch or 10 MOA groups. "Adding a piston to an AR is like nailing more legs to a dog and calling it an octopus." However, if you plan on hunting it will be good to be properly zeroed to 200-300 yards. For simple target practice or competition shooting, 100 yards should be plenty. I did shoot a mulie doe at 176 yards with the muzzleloader and it was dead on where I aimed and dropped her like a rock. I only have 200 yard shots at most on my hunting land(South Carolina). At 1,000 yards, that translates to 10-inch or 10 MOA groups. Which essentially means you zero at 50 yards and your bullet will hit the same point of aim at 200 yards. The amount of holdover needed to meet the aforementioned level of accuracy is very small with a 100-yard zero—approximately 2.5 inches at 200 yards, .5 inch at 150 yards, and .75 inch at 50 yards. That put it dead on around 172 yards and 3" low at 200. It means that at 50 and 200 your trajectory are basically the same point. While a 150-yard zero is reasonable, a 100-yard zero may be even more practical, especially if you hunt where most of your shots come very close. I went through 3/4 box of ammo on this sight in to make sure, bore sight first. check out the. The 50/200 zero variations and the 100 yard zero work well because they have been tested and had various bugs worked out. I want my 30-30 to be dead-on at 100 yards. What if you zero your gun at 250 yard? He's probably quite a bit high at 100 yards with a 50 yard zero, maybe as much as 4". 100m zeros with 5.56s coming out of this platform are pretty impractical. At 50 yards it is .3high, at 100 its zero, at 150 its -2.7, and at 200 its -8.3. I like when things are easy like that. What barrel? A 100 yard zero will make you hold over at a shorter range. And, thanks to the folks at Arma Dynamics, here is an illustration of point of aim vs. point of impact for an AR15 with 50, 100, and 300 yard zeroes: "Pressure is what you feel when you don't know what you're doing." http://m.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator, http://www.hornady.com/store/450-Bushmaster-250-gr-FTX-LEVERevolution/. The BDC scope does the rest. Is it even possible to get a "zero" at 50? I use a 100 yard zero on my bolt rifles and then dial from there so … These corrections will … and pressure, with the scope center 1.5 inches from the bore center, you should shoot .43 inches low at 25 yards for a 200 yard zero. Similar variation between POA & POI, very easy to calculate drops at range, and added benefit of using holdovers only; no shots go above POA. "A sword never kills anybody; it is a tool in the killer's hand". For example, the cataloged short-range zero for Remington's 150-grain SPCL .30-30 Winchester cartridge is 100 yards, and its long-range zero is given as 150 yards. So this zero drops quickly past 300 yards. I ultimately don't think it matters one iota which zero you choose, and I think that the far more important thing is to pick one or the other, get trigger time with it at all distances, learn the hold-overs/unders, and learn the benefits and limitations of your choice. So at 100 yards, it will strike above your 50/200 zero but only 3 to 4 inches above, and at 250 yards again, it will only strike 3 to 4 inches below your point of aim. That said, for a short distance/fighting rifle, I like a 50 yard zero but know your POA/POI from 0 to 300. His zero could be as far as 250. Know your scope. When you zeroed at 200 and then checked it at 50, how far off were you? “With a 100-yard zero, there’s just that easy one-to-one correspondence,” says Vaughn. But that is also the round itself not the zero’s fault. Just how "basically"? For most hunting use, zeroing at 200 yards is pretty much a "set it and forget it" deal. 50 yard zero. If you can't confirm a 50 yard zero by shooting at 200 yards due to range limit of 100 yards is it better to go with the 25 yard zero that you can confirm at 100? One of the most popular “Battle sight” zeros for the AR-15 is the 50/200. Talk about the AR15 style rifles chambered in 450 Bushmaster. the 50-200 yard zero I have heard a lot about using a 50-200 yard zero, but would like to know how well it really works. With the 450 the whitetail I shot in the exact same spot walked 20 yards and died but she was quite a bit further away. I had cheap redfield rings on that one , thought possibly they could have shifted. 100 yard zero by Jim in Houston » Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:44 pm, by Jim in Houston » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:31 am, Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests. I don't have anywhere were I can zero it in at 100 yards. “You can figure it in your head.” But if your zero is at 200-yards, 250-yards or 300-yards, and your target is at 725 yards… Will a rifle sighted for 50 yards (ascending bullet) really be on target for 200 as the bullet descends? With that zero, the bullet drop at 300 yards is only about six inches, so not much holdover is needed for the relatively few shots to be taken at that distance. Bring him down a couple of clicks and turn him loose on anything 225 and in. This is about what the dot would look like on a target at 100 yards. A 200 or 300 yard zero will include adjustment for drop, environmental conditions, as well as a correction for any wind. Better rings as well. On my competition rifles, I do a hard 200 yard zero and then know POA/POI from 0 to 500. I zero'd mine 3" high at 100. Keep in mind 2.5" high at 100 yrds will get you about 3.5" low at 200 yrds. Now when you go back to Georgia swamps, you might consider re zeroing at 100 yards for making head shots at shorter ranges. As far as 100 VS 200 Yds/Meters for a zero - IMO it makes absolutely no difference so long as you stay with one or the other. If my rifle is zeroed at 200 or 300 yards, that zero will only be spot on at the place I zeroed that day. "basically"? Every yard matters. I like when things are easy like that. If you could provide the manufacturer of the ammunition you are using that would be very helpful. WATCH: A 100 Yard Zero vs. a 200 Yard Zero Posted at 1:06 pm on February 3, 2017 by Jenn Jacques So a 50 yard zero on a 16inch 5.56/223 barrel is point and shoot out to 200 yards and everything after that is a holdover. To put it simply, the 200 yard zero requires the bullet flight path to be higher, ergo the bullet 1.9" high at 100 yards. I sight my 204s in at 200 yards as they are about 3/4 inch high at 100 yards and about 3.3 inches low at 300 yards (aim at head) and you are right on by aiming right on them. I got mine dialed in at 100 yards. That pretty well covers it for me. What ammo? “With a 100-yard zero, there’s just that easy one-to-one correspondence,” says Vaughn. With what optic? Just how far you should zero your scope is dependent on how far you will be shooting. If you have an AR-15, then you need to zero it. They aren’t. With a 50/200 MPBR zero, there is only a 3 to 4-inch difference in point of aim and point of impact from 50 yards to 250 yards. Life Member, Texas State Rifle Association; Patron LIfe Member, NRA. Remember that shots too long for a point-blank hold with a 200-yard zero are uncommon. oh of course i sighted that scope in , 25 yard zero with leverevolutions , should have been fine out to 200 yards. The trajectory path at 50 yards is 1.2 inches high, at 100 yards the bullet is 2.9 inches high, at 200 yards 2.3 inches high and at 300 yards the bullet only drops 3.8 inches. It’s taking people backwards. Should be real close to zero at 200, and very acceptable still on small ground-hog sized targets this summer out to 300. MISC Training Course Announcements & AAR's, Former Vickers Shooting Method Regional Instructors, Pacific Northwest Training and Networking, All Other Longgun Parts, Accessories, & Magazines (EE), Handgun Parts, Accessories & Magazines (EE), If this is your first visit, be sure to Is there a norm for 450 hunters? It is wrong to assume that all scopes are the same. … For hunting, a 200 yard zero will better allow you to hold for the center of the kill zone and still make a hit in the vitals. “You can figure it in your head.” But if your zero is at 200-yards, 250-yards or 300-yards, and your target is at 725 yards… The Myth: A 25-yard zero puts you “dead-on” at 100 yards.I’ve listened to some pretty amazing ballistic theories over the years but this one is probably the most common. The theory is that, with common big game cartridges, a “zero” at 25 yards will correlate to a second “zero” at 100 yards. In anticipation of getting my upper for this weekend, I have a question. However, assuming you are shooting Remington 95gr Accutip @ 3,120fps at standard temp. And with this 50/200 zero when you aim dead […] - Chuck Knox. I zero'd at 50 yards, and found that to be about 5 clicks high then at 100 yards. hello all. View Quote. I looked at the ballistics on my ammo, and at a 100 yards zero here are is the chart. Ummmm, it's not 25/100, it's 25/300. That means that with a 100-yard zero, the bullet will rise ½ inch above line of sight at 50 yards; 1.8 inches above at 100 yards with a 200-yard zero, and 4.7 inches above at 150 yards with a 300-yard zero. Cons: 300 yards is a 9-inch hold over and 400 yards is a 27-inch holdover. That put it dead on around 172 yards and 3" low at 200. Unless you live in the Northeastern big woods or southern swamp country and will never shoot at a deer past 100 yards, you’re far better off zeroing your rifle at 200 yards. The cataloged short-range and long-range zeroes for the same bullet in the .30-06 Springfield and the .300 Winchester Magnum are the same: 150 yards and 200 yards. How different was the POI at 100 when you first got POA/POI at 50 vs. when you locked in a zero at 200? For targets, you're going to want to dial right in to whatever range you are shooting at anyways, so it … I've zeroed everything (RD, scopes and irons) at 200M for decades so my POA at 100, 150 & 300 is somewhat ingrained. You’re better off zeroing hunting rifles so you won’t ever have to hold low. I zero'd mine 3" high at 100. Funny thing is that my 50 cal muzzleloader with 250 grain sabots and 150 grains of powder has almost identical ballistics. THE 200-YARD ZERO Sighting in your high-power deer rifle at 100 yards is a waste of a perfectly good flat trajectory. Most are from around 100 or so. And your bullet will hit 100 yard zero vs 200 yard zero same point of aim at 200 yards, that translates to or... 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